Settings
Whether you're choosing a diamond solitaire, a ring with a number of stones,
or an open-work lattice ring in which the diamonds flow along the lines of the setting,
the way the stones are held in the setting is an integral part of its design. Once you recognize these
differences, you'll be prepared to analyze each ring at a glance and make a choice based on those elements that best please your taste.
Learn about the settings below & shop for your perfect setting at Mondera.
Engagement Rings
Weddings Bands
Diamond Rings
Anniversary Bands
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Let's start with the prong setting, the one most often used to hold a
solitaire. Prong setting puts the emphasis on the stones and not the metal. The
purpose of any setting is to hold the diamonds securely in the mounting and at
the same time allow light to enter the diamonds for maximum brilliance.
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This is obviously a delicate balancing act. The more metal used to hold the
diamonds, the more secure they are; the less metal used, the greater the chance
for the diamond to reflect light. For this reason, platinum is often the metal
of choice for diamond solitaires.
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Because platinum is both dense and strong, very thin wires of it are sufficient
to hold the diamond securely in place. The diamond may be raised high up above
the shank, to give it a larger, more important appearance, with only a
suggestion of metal showing.
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In such a setting, the prongs are attached to the central setting of a ring,
known as the head or basket. Each prong extends upward and outward from the
head, arching over the diamond to form a secure grip.
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The ideal prong tapers to a rounded point. It should be smoothly finished,
diminishing any chance of the prong snagging the threads of your clothes. The
prongs should also be placed at the key points of the stone, typically at four
corners or at four, five or six points evenly spaced around the stone, to offer
security without interfering with the stone's brilliance.
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The prong setting can also be found in a few variations. One such variation,
called the V-prong setting, functions on the same basic
concept, but it uses prongs which, when viewed from above, appear to be curved
into a V-shape. The right angle of the wire is cut to allow the corner of the
gem to rest and be held by the wire.
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Another variation on the prong setting is called the common prong.
Here, the metal wire is grooved at the top, and is used to hold two gemstones
by their side (girdle). This technique is used to give a close side-by-side
gemstone relationship without the metallic interference of too many prongs.
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If the flush setting is subtle, the bezel setting is its bolder sister. A bezel
is a collar of precious metal that wraps around the diamond.
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The bezel is attached to the top of the ring and stands up above it, adding
height and another dimension to the setting. Although solid bezels have a very
traditional look, the bezel may be 'split' into two sections, arcing around
just part of the diamond. This is called a half bezel.
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This simple change suddenly opens up the setting and gives it a totally modern
look. The technique may also be used on a fancy cut diamond -- with an arc of
precious metal around the wide curve of a pear shape and another, V-shaped
section of precious metal embracing the narrow end.
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Channel setting is also used to set round diamonds. Channel setting offers a
sleek, elegant appearance, though the end result is a very different look.
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Setting round diamonds into channels leaves small spaces closest to the metal
bars of the channel. By choosing round diamonds, the designer creates a clean
line of stones, yet one with greater brilliance than is possible with
baguettes. This also offers a less restrained look, and may be more suitable
when a ring has a round center stone.
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Channel setting is also used when there is no center stone at all. The
placement of baguettes around an entire band is a beautiful choice for a
wedding band, one that goes well with a matching ring set with a diamond
solitaire
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Channel setting protects the diamonds extremely well. None of the edges are
exposed, and so they are not subject to hard knocks or general wear and tear.
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A variation of the channel set is called the bar channel. Here, the metal
plates rise to top level of the stone, and so are visible between the stones.
This gives a slightly different visual effect, and can be very striking if the
contrast between the metal and the stone is significant.
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When the surface of a ring appears to be covered with tiny diamonds, the
technique is called Pavé which means paved. It's an apt name because the
surface looks a bit like a very pretty street paved with cobblestones.
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Tiny diamonds are placed in small holes that have been drilled out of the ring
shank. On a band that does not taper across the top, each diamond should be
exactly the same size. The diamonds are placed in rows, but in such a way that
they fill as much of the space of the surface as is possible without actual
touching. The more precisely cut the diamonds, the better the final appearance
of the ring.
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Each tiny diamond, weighing just a few points, is fully cut with 58 facets.
Though small in size, each stone contributes to the overall, shimmering look of
the design. After it is positioned in its hole, tiny bits of metal from the
surface of the shank are pushed over the edge of the diamond, forming tiny
beads to hold the stone in place.
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Pavé is a demanding technique that is most successfully accomplished in
the hands of a patient and extremely talented jeweller.
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The cost of a Pavé-set diamond ring is in the hand setting of the
diamonds; as such, it is often much more a determinant of price than the cost
of the diamonds and the gold. To evaluate a ring that is Pavé set, look at the
overall design. Are the diamonds laid out in such a way that the entire surface
of the ring looks like a glittering carpet of gems? That's the sign of a
well-designed and well-made ring.
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If a section of the ring is Pavé-set, with certain areas tapering to a
point, the diamonds should diminish in size as the Pavé area narrows. This
requires the most precise selection of diamonds.
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The cluster setting is another variation on the theme of choosing a ring with a
number of smaller diamonds. There are cluster rings with the stones arranged in
the form of a stylized flower, or those done as an abstract arrangement of
stones.
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Cluster rings are usually multi-level, with considerable height above the hand.
The arrangement of stones can be quite open and airy looking, or it may be more
tightly arranged. The choice is a matter of taste, but the shape of the finger
can also play a role in making that choice.
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Remember that the openwork design lengthens the look of the finger and the
hand, while the more closed design draws the eye toward the hand.
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The flush setting is one of the subtlest diamond-setting techniques. Stones are
sunk into the mounting until they are nearly level or flush with the surface.
Only the table of the stone and a bit of the upper pavilion facets show.
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This technique seems to go against everything we know about diamonds in
relation to light, but it's become quite a popular setting. It's a very subtle
look, and one that appeals to the woman who likes the idea of tiny, glittering
bits of light twinkling like stars in the sky.
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The flush setting is also used for larger stones, offering great protection and
a modern look.
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