How to Buy a Pin
By Ettagale Blauer
What a remarkable history the pin has! This pretty, decorative object, ready to
sparkle on your suit jacket lapel or on the shoulder of a dress, has been part
of many cultures for centuries, even millennia. The notion of creating a
decorative metal fastener that would hold a garment together securely has been
with us at least 2700 years.
Fibulas found at ancient Etruscan sites feature decorative granulation as well
as a sharp pin to do the actual work of piercing fabric. We have nearly
abandoned the functional aspect of the pin or brooch, although we'll consider
ways to use them as practical additions to a wardrobe down below. But even with
our practical buttons and zippers, we still enjoy pinning one of these charming
pieces of jewelry on our modern garments.
Fashionable women often choose a special pin as the signature of their style and
there's certainly no shortage of designs to suit virtually every taste and
every woman. And you certainly don't have to be a diplomat or someone in the
public eye to merit your own special badge of distinction. Let's look at some
styles and all the interesting ways to wear pins.
Perhaps no other type of jewelry allows the broad scope of choice as does the
pin or brooch. Unlike rings, earrings and necklaces, size is not a factor when
choosing pins. Petite women can wear large pins without worrying about
proportion. Just look at the pictures of the slender, short Duchess of Windsor,
wearing one of her enormous sapphire or ruby feather brooches.
If you can't choose between this pin or that one, choose both and then wear them
together, as a pair. We don't hear much about scatter pins these days but the
concept hasn't disappeared. A group of small pins, artfully placed together on
a jacket, makes a dramatic statement, or a whimsical one, depending on the
style of the pins. Scatter pins have the appeal of charm bracelets - they allow
the wearer to combine a number of pieces and wear them together as a decorative
group and a fashion statement.
Collecting pins is one of the most delightful ways to brighten your wardrobe.
Once your family and friends catch on, you'll find yourself deluged with pins.
Are you a dog or cat fancier? There are myriad designs available. Hobbies such
as golf or tennis are natural inspirations for pin collectors. Are flowers your
delight? You'll need a new jewelry box to accommodate all the exquisite,
graceful flower pins available. A flower pin can be a simple gold design, set
with diamonds or colored gemstones at the center, or perhaps with one diamond
dew drop set on a leaf. Or, the entire pin can be created from gemstones,
fashioned into a glittering and colorful floral display, and one you don't have
to worry about being allergic to! The setting, made of platinum or gold,
gracefully curves around to emulate the look of real petals. Flower pins are
made with or without stems - it's your choice.
Then there are the flying creatures -butterflies and bees are two of the most
beloved designs. With the variety of butterflies found in nature, designers
find endless inspiration - and butterfly pins live forever, unlike their real
life counterparts. The value of these pins varies widely too - while you can
spend many thousands of dollars for an all-diamond pin you can also find a
delightful design for a few hundred dollars. More expensive gemstones,
especially fine quality rubies, sapphires and emeralds raise the price but
there are exquisite, less expensive colored gems available too - pink and green
tourmaline, amethyst and garnet just to name a few, in the designer's palette.
Enamel offers a colorful choice as well and enables the artist to most
faithfully reproduce the colors of the butterfly's wings. Gem-set bees are
absolutely nothing like their real-life inspiration - they won't ever sting!
Instead, they look as if they've just flown in to alight on your shoulder. Pair
up a bee with a flower pin and you can create a whole scene from nature, right
on your lapel.
The traditional bow shape is a favorite choice of jewelry designers. The bow,
with its folds and center knot artfully worked out in metal and gemstones, may
be as delicate or as bold as you are. Two popular motifs, the feather and the
arrow, are often interpreted by designers. A feather pin, worked entirely in
diamonds, gracefully echoes the look of a real feather. The arrow pin is often
cunningly designed so that the shaft is hidden beneath the fabric leaving the
point and the feathered tail showing; the two ends create the look of two
separate pins.
Getting away from nature, there's a world of abstract and geometric designs to
choose from. If you prefer something without the symbolism of a bird or a
butterfly, or even a flower, look at bar brooches. The placement of colored
geometric shapes in enamel and gemstones, in the Art Deco style, offers another
world of color and design. The bar brooch is one of the most enduring designs.
It can be worn either horizontally or vertically or even at a diagonal, along a
lapel. Bar brooches may also be used to support a hanging watch, a charming
reminder of the days before the wristwatch was invented. When you don't want to
wear the watch, just detach it. You can also suspend a favorite pendant from a
bar brooch to Design Your own ornament when your outfit precludes wearing the
pendant around your neck. Bar brooches have a sophisticated elegance about them
and show that there is a pin design for every woman's taste and style.
There are pins to wear in daytime and for gala evening events. A glittering
gemstone pin is just right at night, sparkling on the bosom of a strapless
evening gown. A pretty rose flower brooch can highlight a daytime outfit,
adding color and flair. And who says there's only one place to wear a pin?
Yes, the lapel or breast pocket of a jacket is a fine spot for a pin, but it's
hardly the only place. Try placing a pin up toward the shoulder of your garment
where it will definitely catch the eye. Or place a row of small pins along the
center of a dress, as if there was a row of buttons there.
Do you wear hats? They're coming back into fashion and offer another delightful
place to wear a pin, and one that is sure to draw attention to your face. And
just when you thought pins had lost their original, functional use, think of
adding a generously sized pin to hold a shawl in place. With shawls being worn
as often as lipstick, it's time to revive the practical use of pins. If you
become too warm and want to loosen your shawl, move the pin to enfold just one
layer of fabric; now it's just pretty!
You can choose pins to match every outfit - there's no limit to the colors or
styles available at just about every price range. Even if you're a basic black
kind of person, there's a great deal to choose from. White diamonds set in
platinum, gold sparked with diamonds, black enamel or black diamonds, there's a
beautiful world of designs. If you're about to choose your first pin, welcome
to the wonderful world of designs. If this is going to be a new addition to
your collection, have fun making that next choice. You'll probably discover
that you've been expressing your own signature style already. So whether it's
butterflies or bar pins, flowers or geometrics, enjoy these magical bits of
design.
Ettagale Blauer writes about fine jewelry for consumer magazines. Her books on
jewelry include Contemporary American Jewelry Design (Chapman and Hall) and
Wristwatches: Five Decades of Style and Design (Schiffer). Her latest book is
African Elegance, on the arts and crafts of sub-Saharan Africa
View our elegant "Pins & Brooches"
